Monday 11 September 2017

Pain au levain (sourdough)

It's the secret Hovis don't want you to know about!  Yes, you too, can bake your own bread at home for a fraction of the cost of a sliced loaf!  

(updated September 2017 on the birth of my hundredth loaf!) 

Loaf number 100, this morning
Baking never really was a really strong point of mine, but it gives you a lovely warm feeling inside, and thanks to the amount I've been reading up about sourdough, I can now bake a loaf with much less effort than ever before.  This morning loaf number 100 came out of the oven, and whilst they haven't all been perfect, this one came pretty damn close.

I'll warn you now that if you want to try this, it requires time and patience, especially in the early stages.  But it’s true: the best things really do come to those who wait.  You will come to love every loaf you make with all your heart, because you'll get a different result every time; just like dogs, homebaked bread comes in all kinds of unexpected shapes and sizes with a whole range of characters and personalities.

This loaf yields a deliciously crunchy crust and beautiful, chewy dough which tastes slightly vinegary.  You won't be able to resist eating it, especially while it's still warm, with a bit of butter.  But best of all, you can put that breadmaker back in its box on top of the cupboard where it has languished since Christmas 2003, because you don't need one – all you need is a mixing bowl, a casserole dish and a Kilner jar.

Ingredients:
  • Strong bread flour (I suggest you use wholemeal the first time, and when the bag's gone you can alternate with white flour. Organic flour is nice, but not essential - I would however suggest using a flour that doesn't have improvers added)
  • Warm water
  • Fine polenta (optional, and you won't need this until baking day)
  • Lots of love
  • Lots of patience

It's aliiiiiiive! Sourdough starter at 14 days old
Before you bake your first sourdough loaf, you'll need some sourdough starter – basically, in layman’s terms, the yeast needed to make your bread rise.  But don't worry about buying any yeast, because everything you need is right here, in the air you're breathing now.  Making your own yeast will cost you just two minutes a day for the next five days.

Start with a clean and sterile Kilner jar.  Other airtight jars are available.

Measure out equal weights (for a jar of this size, 75g of each) of flour and warm water. Add to the jar and mix well; seal the jar and leave it in a warm place where you will now need to forget about it for 24 hours.  While you’re busy forgetting about it, I’d recommend reading up about what’s really happening in that jar. And whatever you do, don't open it.

The next day, measure out the same quantity again of warm water and flour, but this time use a clean cup to mix them before adding it to yesterday's mixture.  Stir and put it back in a warm place for another 24 hours.  I'll refer to this process from now on as 'feeding' your sourdough starter; after all it is a living, breathing organism.  You may even want to give it a name. Mine is called Aggie.

Feed the sourdough starter again on days 3 and 4.  Every now and then, the flour and water will separate as in the picture above, leaving you with a brackish liquor floating on top which should smell slightly beery.  If this is the case, then you're well on track - just give the mixture a feed, stir to bring it together and close the lid again.  If it smells really horrid, then maybe something has gone wrong - perhaps the jar wasn't sterile at the start - in which case, throw it away and start again.

By day five, maybe day six, the mixture should have started to bubble (picture below) and a small amount of pressurised air will escape from the jar whenever you open it. Sometimes it's good to let the pressurised air escape - you don't want any exploding jars!  If you've reached the top of the jar or the mixture is bubbling out, discard half the mixture and continue feeding as above until you're ready to bake.

Now, bearing in mind that you will need to feed your sourdough starter the day before you bake with it, stop feeding the mixture before the starter reaches the top of the jar.  If you're not ready to bake yet, you can place the jar in your fridge, where it can safely hibernate until you're ready to bake. 

Your starter will "tell" you when it's time to bake
The day before you're ready to bake
Remove the starter from the fridge in the morning.  Give it a feed, close the lid and allow it to return to room temperature, whereupon it will start bubbling again.

The night before you're ready to bake
Now it starts getting interesting!  Just before you go to bed, mix together in a clean bowl 375g of strong flour with 250g of the sourdough starter. Add a good pinch or two of salt and about half a cup of warm water. Mix well with your hands until there is no dry flour left - you may need to add more warm water or flour, but remember the golden rule - you can always add liquid but you can't take it out.

Now tip the contents of the bowl out onto a clean work surface. Drizzle the dough and work surface with olive oil (to stop the dough sticking) and knead the dough for five to ten minutes before covering it with a clean, slightly damp tea towel, and leave it in an oiled mixing bowl, in a warm place, to prove overnight.

At this point you can roll the dough in sesame seeds, poppy seeds, onion seeds, linseed or sunflower seeds if you want to add extra flavour and texture.  Even if you don't add seeds, sprinkle a small quantity of fine polenta over the dough and ensure it's coated evenly; this will prevent it from sticking.  

Make sure you leave a little bit of the old sourdough starter in your jar, and feed it in preparation to make your next batch by following the same instructions as before.  Thereafter you can feed the starter every couple of days, leaving it in the fridge if you're going away for the weekend.

A freshly mixed loaf, topped with seeds and ready to prove.

Baking day
When you awake the next morning, the dough will have roughly doubled in size. 

You will need a clean lidded casserole dish to bake the bread in.  Set your oven as hot as it will go, and place the empty casserole dish and lid inside.  You’re trying to create, effectively, an oven within an oven, so leave it to get hot.  Remove it carefully after 15 minutes or so, place a dusting of polenta (or flour) at the bottom of the dish and turn the ball of dough onto it, taking care not to let any touch the sides.  Replace the lid and bake on maximum heat for twenty minutes.

After twenty minutes remove the lid and take a peek.  If it looks good (it won't be completely cooked yet) then return it to the oven for maybe another ten or fifteen minutes, allowing the crust to develop.  Don't leave the oven open for too long in-between peeks.
When you feel the bread is ready, remove the casserole dish from the oven and turn the loaf out onto a wire rack to cool.  Eat while still slightly warm, and bask for a while in a kind of warm, organic happiness which is largely missing from modern life.

Addendum
September 2017: It is now a full seven months since I bought any bread.  My costs are down to about 40p a loaf.  Toasted sourdough bread with a fried egg on top is, truly, the breakfast of champions.

The first few loaves looked ugly and sliced unevenly but tasted delicious.  Practice, however, makes perfect, and I can now mix and knead a loaf faster than it would take me to walk to the shops and buy one.  The starter will improve with time, and although the proving time varies according to ambient temperature, the loaves all rise uniformly well.  Sometimes I make extra dough and use it to make pizza dough or a few bread rolls. The bread freezes well, and any leftover bits are great cubed and fried in olive oil and served in a salad with tomatoes, basil and mozzarella.

The moral of this story: if at first you don't succeed, try, try and try again. Fortune favours the brave. Learn to love your mistakes and learn from them. Your first loaf won't be perfect, but persevere with it and you'll never go hungry again.  

Monday 2 May 2016

Ramen burgers



A homemade ramen burger, yesterday
I first read about ramen burgers - a burger where the traditional bread bun is replaced with a disc of instant noodles - a few years ago.  Not being a big burger fan, I dismissed the idea as a fad, all the time remaining a little intrigued at the outrageous concept of using cheap noodles to prepare a dish which could doubtless sell for a tenner a throw.  Then, I found myself in Greenwich market one rainy Sunday with time to kill.  Greenwich market has an excellent street food section, with freshly cooked and expertly prepared dishes from the four corners of the globe and, as I let my sense of smell guide me around the intriguing array of delicious flavours, I noticed someone eating a ramen burger!  Curiously, I ordered one up and started chatting with the stall owner, watching intently as he prepared it.  Needless to say it was delicious, and although he wouldn't divulge the secret of the burger buns, and rightly so (you're never too old to learn something new!) a little research and a free evening was all I needed to start playing...

Ingredients (serves 2)

For the buns:
2 packets of instant noodles, flavour sachets discarded
1 egg
Sesame seeds, optional
Salt and pepper
Oil for frying

For the Vietnamese pork burgers:
284g minced pork (vegetarians, you could of course use tofu or mushrooms instead)
spring onions, finely sliced
a drop of sherry vinegar
crushed chillies
minced ginger and garlic
1 tsp cornflour
soy sauce
salt and pepper
1 egg
A few coriander stems, finely chopped
Oil for frying

For the salad:
Red onion or shallots, finely diced
Carrot, finely diced
Cucumber, seeds removed and finely diced
Radish, finely diced
Coriander, finely chopped
Lime juice
Red chillies, chopped
Fish sauce, soy sauce and sesame oil to dress the salad according to preference

Sriracha sauce to taste

Preparing the Vietnamese pork burgers:
Mix together the pork mince with the other ingredients.  Add the dry ingredients first and the liquids last in order to ensure that the mixture isn't too moist. Also, take good care to ensure that the vegetables are chopped as finely as possible, so that the burgers will retain their shape when cooking.  Large pieces of spring onion and ginger are tasty but will cause your burgers to fall apart!  Cover and leave to chill until ready to cook.  Two hours should be enough, but the flavours will develop better if left overnight.

Preparing the noodle buns:
Take a large pan and fill with water.  Bring to the boil and remove from the heat.  Gently place the noodles into the hot water and leave to soak for approximately five minutes.  Don't bring it back to the boil, and don't add the flavour sachets.  After five minutes, drain and allow to cool slightly.  

Meanwhile beat one egg with a pinch of salt and pepper; pour this over the noodles and stir well to ensure an even coating of egg.  Add sesame seeds if desired. Place the mixture in the refrigerator, and allow to cool for a further 30 minutes.

Why use instant noodles?  It's all in the texture; when cooled, the noodles bind together well because of the starch they contain.  I would imagine you could use other egg noodles but you might want to soak them for longer.  If you are allergic to wheat you might want to try using rice vermicelli.

The salad:
While the noodles cool, it's time to prepare the pickled vegetable salad!  Mix together the ingredients in a bowl with a little vinegar and sesame oil.  Add chillies and black pepper to taste and, most importantly of all, the juice of a whole lime. Refrigerate until ready to serve.  If you don't want a spicy dressing, you could of course use sweet chilli sauce; depending on your level of artistry you could even knock up a few ribbons of radish, carrot and cucumber which would make for a far less messy eating experience!

Ramen Burger (detail); I probably should have made either a bigger burger or a smaller bun
Now it's time to prepare the burger buns.  Take a small single-egg frying pan; you could also use a pastry-cutting ring or metallic burger mould to shape the buns if you only have a large frying pan.  Over a medium heat, warm through a few drops of sesame oil and add a small handful of chilled noodles.  Press the noodles right down to compress them into a burger bun shape; you may even want to weight them down with a pint glass for the first minute or two of cooking!  Leave to cook gently on a low heat for five minutes or so, occasionally checking the bottom of the pan to make sure that your noodles haven't burned too much or stuck, and that they have formed a firm shape and don’t fall apart when lifted with a spatula.  When the buns are cooked on the underneath, flip them over into a larger, slightly oiled pan, uncooked side face down, for a further minute or two.  Repeat process until you have enough half-buns to make a burger per person.

Gently fry the burgers until cooked and arrange them onto a half bun. Top with a swirl of sriracha sauce, a good dollop of the salad and place another half-bun on top.  Prepare to be amazed, and have a clean shirt handy for afterwards…

Thursday 27 June 2013

Paglesham Pie

Some Paglesham pie, earlier
Little is known of the history of this flavourful variant on the humble English pork and egg pie, which shares its name with, and perhaps originated in the picturesque Essex village of the same name.  This local dish seems to be all but forgotten; indeed it's conspicuous by its absence from the menu of Paglesham's local, the Plough and Sail.  Perhaps it's just one of those things that have been lost to time, which is a shame because this melt-in-the-mouth pie really ought to be on the menu of every pub in the county! 

With the possible exception of our local cockles and oysters, South East Essex seems to be lacking in local delicacies to champion, but that could all be about to change.  This recipe - one, I believe, of many - is adapted from a variant posted on essexgourmet.co.uk and, put in layman's terms, it's practically a complete English breakfast in pie form.  The ideal way to start, or, indeed round off a rigorous day's ploughing.
  • 227g shortcrust pastry, chilled
  • One pack of sausage meat
  • One onion, chopped finely
  • 2tsp mustard
  • A few thin slices of streaky smoked bacon
  • A few eggs
  • Black pepper
  • Milk to glaze
Note: the traditional recipe also calls for a pinch each of nutmeg and mace, neither of which are in my otherwise well-stocked spice rack.  I could only lay my hands on a couple of leaves of finely chopped fresh sage and hoped for the best.. but I think I got it!

Serves 4-6

Pre-heat an oven to 200 degrees, gas 6.

Fry the chopped onion slowly in a little olive oil until softened.  Meanwhile, roll out the pastry and line a loaf tin with it (you could of course use any kind of dish.)  Cut away the pastry which overhangs the loaf tin and re-roll it, keeping one eye all the time on the onions so that they don't burn.  Remove the onions from the heat once cooked and set aside.

Mix together the sausage meat with the herbs and spices and season to taste, with plenty of black pepper.  Add the cooled onion and mix well.  Spoon this mixture into the pie, taking care to fill it not much more than two-thirds of the way.

Place a few slices of bacon over the top of the sausage meat, then break a few eggs directly over the bacon, taking care to leave the yolks whole.  Cover the whole thing with a pastry lid and brush lightly with milk before baking for twenty minutes.  Reduce the heat to 180 degrees or gas 4 for a further half hour. 

Try to resist the temptation to eat the pie straight from the oven; delicious though it is, it will slice better cold, straight from the fridge.  Nice with a few pickles and a pint of foaming nut-brown ale.

Friday 5 April 2013

Belgian beef and beer (Vlaamse Stoverij)


A delicious, warming stew served with chips and salad
I adore Belgium; I just can't get enough of the place. Is it the beautiful-sounding guttural Flemish language which, frustratingly, I can understand in its written form but speak so comically badly? Perhaps. Is it those picturesque cloudy landscapes, the windswept sand dunes and Gothic architecture? Maybe. The cultured, polite and well-mannered people? Probably.  Is it anything to do with chocolate and beer? Well...

This delicious beef stew is at its best when made a couple of days beforehand, since it improves greatly with age.  Shin of beef needs to be cooked long and slowly, and it will melt in the mouth cooked in this thick, unctuous and plentiful sauce made from dark beer. But best of all, the Belgians like to eat it with chips and salad, rather than serving it with boiled cabbage and mashed potato like we would in Britain. Vive la difference, I say. Those Belgians are way ahead.

Ingredients – serves four


  • 2 bottle dark Belgian beer – Leffe is ideal but actually I prefer Brugse Zot, a rich brew from Brugge
  • Three large onions, sliced thinly
  • 1.5kg stewing beef – shin or chuck steak are ideal – sliced into cubes
  • 50g butter
  • A couple of tablespoons of plain flour
  • A teaspoon of mustard
  • A splash of cider vinegar
  • 4 teaspoons of sugar
  • Fresh thyme and a couple of bay leaves
  • Salt and pepper

Melt the butter in a large cooking pot and add the onions. Cook over a low heat, stirring regularly until the onions turn a deep golden colour before adding the beef. Season well with salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper. Stir continuously to brown the beef evenly.

When the beef has browned to your satisfaction, add the flour and continue cooking for a few minutes, stirring all the time to avoid lumps. Add the beer, followed by the sugar, vinegar, mustard and herbs and stir well to loosen up any lumps of flour or beef which may have stuck to the base of the pan.

Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, as gently as you can for four hours, stirring occasionally.

After four hours, remove from the heat and leave to rest for a minimum of twelve hours, but an extra day or two will allow the flavour to develop.

When ready to serve, reheat until piping hot and serve with dressed salad and plenty of chips.

Hot cross bun bread pudding



Some bread pudding, yesterday
If you bought too many hot cross buns at Easter, don’t throw them away – freeze them and save your stale bread to make a tasty bread pudding, crusty on top and soft and moist in the middle. Makes bleeding tons.

Ingredients

  • 8 stale hot cross buns. For every bun you haven’t got, substitute two slices of stale bread. You could, of course, just use 16 slices of bread and make a plain old bread pudding.
  • 400 ml milk
  • Fresh satsuma or tangerine peel, cut into small diced pieces
  • Grated lemon peel
  • 100g currants
  • 2 Earl Grey tea bags
  • Fresh or candied ginger, finely chopped
  • Powdered cloves
  • Powdered cinnamon
  • Powdered or fresh nutmeg
  • 100g brown sugar
  • 1 egg

Method

Into a bowl, tear the buns/bread up into small pieces.  Pour over three-quarters of the milk and knead the mixture with your hands, while trying to soak up as much milk into the bread as you can. Add the rest of the milk as required until the bread is thoroughly soaked with milk and leave for 15 minutes.

In the meantime, put the kettle on and brew up a big cup of Earl Grey with both bags, but don’t add any milk. Instead pour the currants into the tea. Yes, I’m serious - the currants will swell up and take on the delicate floral aroma of the Earl Grey.

Once the bread has finished soaking, take handfuls and squeeze with your fingers to remove any surplus milk. Add as much ginger as you like (less if using fresh) with both the orange and lemon peel. If you can’t get tangerines or satsumas, grate the rind from the outside of an orange but take care not to add any of the bitter pith underneath.  Add two teaspoons each of the cloves and cinnamon and half a spoonful of nutmeg (or less if using fresh.) Pour in the sugar and egg and mix all the ingredients well.  Finally, remove the teabags from the cup and drain off the raisins well before mixing into the pudding mixture.

Pre-heat an oven to 190C and leave the mixture to stand for 15 minutes before pouring it into small loaf tins. Using small tins means you can easily freeze portions of uneaten bread pudding. Sprinkle the tops with sugar before baking in the oven for an hour. Check the puddings regularly by plunging a clean knife into one and removing it immediately. If any wet pudding mixture clings to the knife then you may wish to bake it for a further fifteen minutes before testing again.

Turn the puddings out onto a cooling rack and dust the crusty tops with more sugar. 

Tip: If you store your bread pudding in a paper bag rather than a plastic one, it will last longer – bread pudding stored in a plastic bag tends to ‘sweat’ after a few days.

Serve hot with custard, or cold with a cup of strong tea and a roaring fire.

Sunday 10 February 2013

Roast chicken with 40 cloves of garlic

This recipe, earlier this afternoon

Based loosely around an apocryphal story I once heard about someone roasting a chicken with several bulbs of garlic inside, and an actual traditional French recipe - quite literally called poulet rôti avec 40 gousses d'ail.  A lot smoother and milder than it sounds, the sauce created by slowly cooking the garlic in white wine is truly astonishing.  The chicken won’t be at all dry, and slow-cooking the garlic in this way also means you can enjoy all the rich flavour of roast garlic without getting garlic breath!

Serves 4.

Ingredients

  • One large chicken
  • Roughly 40 cloves of garlic – that’s around two large bulbs
  • Half a lemon
  • A couple of sticks of celery
  • A spoonful each of dried thyme and rosemary
  • Optional: fresh parsley
  • Olive oil
  • 250ml white wine – I used an Argentinian Pinot Grigio but I guess the recipe works best with proper French wine!
  • Dijon mustard
Pre-heat an oven to around 200C. 

In a small bowl, mix together a teaspoonful each of thyme and rosemary. Add a dash of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. 


Prick the chicken vigorously all over with a fork and massage the olive oil mixture well into the chicken’s skin.  


Take the first bulb of garlic, whole. Turn it onto its side and slice it in half in one clean motion. Pick the cloves apart; there’s no need to peel the garlic meticulously, but you should remove the biggest bits of the papery skin as these could burn inside the chicken.  


Now stuff the chicken, first with the half lemon and then with all the garlic halves. Break the celery sticks in half and push them into the chicken cavity before placing the chicken into a lidded cooking pot.  Always wash your hands well after handling raw chicken.


Peel all of the remaining garlic and scatter the cloves, whole, around the chicken before adding the wine.  Cook for an hour with the lid on, then another half hour with the lid off in order to brown.  The chicken is cooked when the juices run clear; if any of the meat still looks pink you can always give it another ten minutes, but put the lid back on to prevent the bird from drying out.


Your house will shortly smell of garlic.

When cooked, remove the chicken from the pot and wrap it in foil, leaving behind the rich jus, which should have approximately 20 peeled cloves of garlic bobbing about in it! Add a teaspoonful of Dijon mustard and blend the jus with a hand blender to make a rich and velvety sauce. Taste and add further salt, pepper and some finely chopped parsley if desired.


Serve portions of the chicken with seasonal vegetables and generous helpings of the garlic sauce.  If you can recover any of the halved pieces of the garlic from inside the chicken, squeeze them gently to remove the skin and serve alongside.


Your house will still smell of garlic. Your breath, miraculously, won't!

Wednesday 19 December 2012

Mini Seafood Tartlets

The finished tartlets will be square, with a perfectly round centre of aromatic seafood filling

Makes 12 tartlets. A tasty, fragrant snack which is excellent served hot. The texture of the filling is smooth and creamy rather than baked, like a quiche.

For the béchamel sauce:
  • 50g butter
  • 25g plain flour
  • Half a pint of milk
  • Pinch of salt
  • Bay leaf
  • Half an onion, chopped roughly
  • A few peppercorns
The seafood filling:
  • 100g cooked prawns, finely chopped
  • Three tablespoons lobster bisque
  • Two tbsp cream
  • 50g cheddar cheese, grated
  • One egg yolk
  • A tube of herring roe spread (optional)
Garnish:
  • A few fronds of finely-chopped dill
  • A few fennel seeds
  • Paprika to taste
And, of course, a sheet of pre-rolled puff pastry, cut into squares

---

Place the milk, bay leaf, onion, peppercorns and a pinch of salt into a saucepan.  Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally to prevent burning, and set to one side to let the flavours infuse for about five minutes.

Now we're going to make the roux - the base for all white sauces.  In another pan, melt the butter over a low heat, taking care not to let it burn.  When it has all melted, add the flour and stir quickly to prevent the mixture scorching as it solidifies.  Continue stirring to cook out all the flour, until your mixture resembles a paste.  Remove from the heat when ready.

Next, pass the warm milk through a strainer, discarding the onions, peppercorns and bay leaf, and add it slowly to the roux in stages, stirring constantly and quickly over a low heat to remove any lumps.  You probably won't need the whole half pint of milk, but remember the golden rule - you can always add liquid to a recipe but you can't take it out afterwards!  Every time you add a bit more milk, your mixture will develop more lumps, but don't worry - keep stirring the béchamel sauce until it evens out and becomes smooth and silky but not too runny, because the next stage will cause the sauce to thin further.

Add three tablespoons of lobster bisque (you could also use a reduction of fish stock), then the prawns, cheese and cream. Stir until all the cheese has melted in to the sauce, placing it briefly back onto the heat if needed.  Taste the sauce and add seasoning if needed, and leave to one side to cool slightly.

Now take a Yorkshire pudding or muffin tray, the kind with twelve shallow indentations.  Take your squares of puff pastry, place into the indentations and press down to make a well in each one.  Place a small pea-sized blob of the herring roe spread into each tartlet.

Now, without returning it to the heat, quickly whisk the egg yolk into the sauce and mix well, taking care not to scramble the egg!  Spoon the mixture into each tartlet and decorate with the fennel seeds, dill and paprika, all of which are optional - you could equally mill fresh black pepper over each one or add a sliver of anchovy or smoked haddock.

Bake at 220C for 15 minutes or until pastry is golden.